This is the second instalment of our new monthly feature on Japanese food, exploring various regional dishes as introduced by members of staff at the Embassy. Last year, traditional Japanese food (Washoku) was accredited World Heritage status for its importance in the cultural heritage of humanity. Washoku is unique in that each region of Japan incorporates different specialties according to climate and topography, with the natural, geographical and seasonal influences visible in the ingredients used and the style of presentation. We hope you enjoy this series of articles and try some of the recipes for yourself!

Kaki-furai (hot fried oysters)
by Minister Noriyoshi Yamagami, Transport Section


I would agree with my colleague from Osaka that Okonomi-yaki is a dish that is representative (a specialty) of Osaka, which he eloquently depicted in the last magazine. Osaka-style okonomi-yaki is nice. I like it. Nevertheless, I cannot help but challenge his claim that the city of okonomi-yaki is Osaka! If you go to Hiroshima, where I grew up, you will see how deeply rooted okonomi-yaki is in the daily lives of people in Hiroshima.

The cooking method is different from Osaka-style okonomi-yaki. Hiroshima-style okonomi-yaki is typically characterized by the use of soba or udon noodles and being topped with a thick sweet sauce that was invented locally but is now the most widely eaten in Japan. If you take the time to explore, you will find many fairly small and almost unnoticeable okonomi-yaki eateries in all parts of the city, like pubs in the UK! If you don’t have enough time, go to the famous ‘Okonomi-yaki Village’. No other city has such a village comprised of a myriad of okonomi-yaki eateries and stalls. Once you have experienced Hiroshima-style okonomi-yaki, you will think of ‘Hiroshima’ whenever you hear the word ‘okonomi-yaki’.

Hiroshima-style Okonomi-yaki

Besides okonomi-yaki, Hiroshima boasts a variety of delicious indigenous food, including anagomeshi (grilled sea-eel on rice) or momiji manju (confectionary in the shape of a maple leaf). Among other dishes however, oysters must be the most well-known cuisine of Hiroshima. Oysters produced in Hiroshima are highly valued for their flavour, and taste excellent eaten raw, boiled or grilled. If you visit Miyajima, famous for the World Heritage Itsukushima Shinto Shrine as well as for being an oyster producing island, you will see many stalls along a narrow path serving mesh-grilled oysters. Oysters are often used even as an ingredient of Hiroshima-style okonomi-yaki. I also recommend the Oyster Dote hotpot, in which sweet miso is pasted on the inside edge of the pot so that it gradually dissolves into the stock. There are in fact many ways of cooking oysters. But my favourite is hot fried oysters (kaki-furai). Oysters, in particular those caught in Hiroshima, are plump and rich tasting, and in my view deep-frying is the most exquisite way to bring out an oyster's inherent distinctive flavour.  Briney, rich juice bursts into your mouth after biting into an envelope of crispy batter. What a tempting combination! Squeezing lemon juice onto the fried oysters will also enrich the flavour.

I am lucky enough to know many good restaurants serving really delicious hot juicy fried oysters here in London. I think fried oysters are indispensable for winter. And remember that cooking fried oysters is fun, too. Oysters are among the kings of winter dishes. Do try them!

JICC